In most parts of Thailand (Bangkok is an exception) the songthaew (สองแถว) is a major form of cheap and reliable transportation. Those of you that have visited Thailand have seen these I’m sure, they are basically pickup trucks that have been converted into small buses with two rows of seating in the back. As a matter of fact, he word songthaew is literally translated as “two rows”.

Calling a songthaew is quite simple, actually the same as calling a taxi. You simply wait by the side of the road until you see one coming and then gesture for it to stop by holding out your hand with the palm down. In some towns the songthaews actually follow a regular route and there are set stops for them (Chiang Mai and Pattaya come to mind).

You will find that the songthaews can operate differently in different towns. In Pattaya, where the songthaews follow regular routes, all you need to do is jump in once the songthaew has stopped and then ring the buzzer in the back when you’re ready to get off. Fares can vary as well from town to town so it is often a good idea in most towns to ask about the fare before entering the songthaew. It can also be a good idea to ask about your destination to make sure the songthaew is going that way. If not, the driver will shake his (or her) head and drive on. Simply wait at the same spot for the next songthaew to come along which will likely be within minutes.

Fares for the songthaew are usually in the range of 10-20 baht, although prices can be significantly higher in tourist locations. Even a short trip could cost you 40 baht or more in places like Samui. While some people like to complain about this rise in prices I like to remember that 20 baht is only US$0.50 so it’s really not that big a deal and certainly nothing to get upset about. The fact is that the drivers are running a business and they will charge whatever the market (you and me) will bear. Capitalism at its best even in the Far East.

If you happen to see a parked songthaew you can often charter it just like a taxi to take you wherever you need to go. Because you are the only passenger the price will be higher than normal though. Expect to pay around 100 baht or so. You can even charter some songthaews for a half day or entire day, just negotiate the price with the driver and pay at the end of the day. Great if you have a large party of people. And don’t worry if you can’t speak Thai, most drivers have some English skills and often the combination of their limited English and sign language will be enough to come to an agreement.

One word of warning about the songthaew – it can be dangerous depending on your driver. Some drivers drink while driving the songthaew and some tend to drive very fast since the amount they can make is often dependant on how quickly they can make a circuit of their route. Golf was actually thrown out of the back of a songthaew when she was 15. The driver was speeding and he hit a bump while making a turn. The combination of the bump, the speed and the turn threw her up into the air and right out the back of the songthaew.

I still recommend that you use the songthaew to get around as it is quite cheap and in most cases is safe as long as you have your wits about you. If the driver is visibly intoxicated take a pass, but otherwise you should be fine.

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